OVER THE LAST THREE DECADES, fast food has infiltrated every nook and
cranny of American society. An industry that began with a handful of modest
hot dog and hamburger stands in southern California has spread to every
corner of the nation, selling a broad range of foods wherever paying customers
may be found. Fast food is now served at restaurants and drive-throughs,
at stadiums, airports, zoos, high schools, elementary schools, and universities,
on cruise ships, trains, and airplanes, at K- Marts, Wal-Marts, gas stations,
and even at hospital cafeterias. In 1970, Americans spent about $6 billion
on fast food; in 2000, they spent more than $110 billion. Americans now
spend more money on fast food than on higher education, personal computers,
computer software, or new cars. They spend more on fast food than on movies,
books, magazines, newspapers, videos, and recorded music -- combined.
Reading Fast Food Nation isn’t eye-opening on a page-by-page basis. That isn’t to say that all the information contained in its covers is common knowledge, but it’s fair to say that most Americans are familiar with the broad strokes. Who among us believes that a Taco Bell taco is a nutritious meal, or that the person taking our order is a skilled worker—and I say this as a semi-long-term employee of McDonald’s. We’re aware that the meat we eat is frequently raised and slaughtered using inhumane and sometimes grotesque methods, and, to all these things, we’re more or less forced to give semi-informed consent, either by pretending that they’re not so bad or pushing them out of our minds entirely so that we can eat our Big Mac in peace.
Reading Fast Food Nation isn’t eye-opening on a page-by-page basis. That isn’t to say that all the information contained in its covers is common knowledge, but it’s fair to say that most Americans are familiar with the broad strokes. Who among us believes that a Taco Bell taco is a nutritious meal, or that the person taking our order is a skilled worker—and I say this as a semi-long-term employee of McDonald’s. We’re aware that the meat we eat is frequently raised and slaughtered using inhumane and sometimes grotesque methods, and, to all these things, we’re more or less forced to give semi-informed consent, either by pretending that they’re not so bad or pushing them out of our minds entirely so that we can eat our Big Mac in peace.
Fast Food Nation’s
power comes not from its depth—although it is one of the most detailed studies
of America’s #1 export—but from its breadth. Where many micro-histories take a
narrow view of their topics and trust the reader to place it in a larger
context, Fast Food Nation covers
nearly every facet of the fast food sprawl, from its growth in
post-WW1 America to its impact of school lunches, food science, the
meat-and-potatoes industries and beyond and, ultimately, offers a solution. One
of the blurbs on the back cover describe the book as a seminal work of
muckraking, and that seems a fair assessment, even if this particular work’s
assertions are backed up by copious footnotes. Fast Food Nation is definitely, for better or worse, a book with an
agenda—reforming the eating habits of a country.
There are points at which it becomes a bit too didactic, but
for the most part, author Eric Schlosser maintains a remarkably even-handed
tone while dealing with some fairly infuriating material. While the chapters on
the quality of meat used by restaurants—spoiler, there’s poop involved—and school
lunches—which are held to lower federal quality standards than fast food—are gross
and disturbing, it’s the chapters about individual workers caught up in the
unforgiving system that sting the most. From an immigrant Subway franchisee who
purchased a money pit disguised as a gold mine, to the story of the man who literally
gave his body and his life to a slaughterhouse that didn’t even tell him, after
twenty years on the job, when he was fired, the inhumanity of the great machine
is what got to me the most. Like the helpless immigrants in Upton Sinclair’s Jungle, the real-life characters
throughout Fast Food Nation are
tragic, everyday people—mostly poor ones—sold a dream and a vision that was
never really going to happen, but at least the hamburgers are only 99 cents.
3 comments:
"Spoiler--There's Poop Involved" would make a good name for your memoir.
Hahaha!
Fast food is a business now more than a service of providing health junk food. Few decades ago the trend did not exist even. After 1970’s the this fast food trend just elevated. A rough estimation shows from past 3 decades the consumption of burgers, fries has been tripled in US.
food wholesalers
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